The eventual Clothes Sourcing Number to get
Type Fashion Designers
Every garment begins with fabric; it
is the fabric that brings a design to life. You can dramatically alter your
design’s end result by simply changing the cloth you make it from.
The
process of choosing fabrics is a key step in your design process and is often
one where designers just don’t know where to start!
First Step
One thing that you should do before
you even begin working on your prototype, is order samples! When you explore
fabric options before the design phase, you have the flexibility to adapt ideas
based on the options.
Every designer should have a
reliable fabric sourcing strategy to successfully meet production demands, and
sample selection is the first step in this direction.
Don’t panic – I have compiled a
checklist here, to run you through all that you need to know about fabric
sourcing, to create the ultimate fabric sourcing strategy.
Ask Questions
Fabric sampling requires attention
to detail. Remember that you will need more quantities of the same fabric
from your sample run once you finalize your design. So, ask questions on the
following aspects to anyone you plan to do business with:
Minimum and maximum quantities: Many suppliers impose a minimum
order quantity of a few hundred yards of fabric, which may be too much to order
when you are an emerging designer. In such cases, either look for alternative
materials from a low minimum supplier, or negotiate terms and settle on a
compromise that works for you both. As a start-up, you may not be able
to estimate how much fabric will be needed for production. Fabrics that are
available in bulk when required, but can also be sourced in smaller quantities
may therefore be your best option. I’ve always thought this is particularly
important for designers, that’s why the minimum order quantity at my company,
Offset Warehouse, is just one metre – and with every fabric, you can come back
and reorder it in the thousands at a reduced price per metre.
Lead time: Always ask about the lead time for
production and delivery. This will be vital when planning your production
schedule. Don’t assume a supplier will be able to get your fabric to you in a
couple of weeks. If you need hundreds or even thousands of yards, it’s
unlikely to be pre-made and so you will need to factor in the time to have it
made to order.
Repeat orders: Discuss stock availability and
continuity in advance, especially if you order only a small quantity for
sampling. Imagine if the supplier discontinued the fabric at the time you
needed it for production – it would upset all your plans! Make sure it will be
in stock if you need to come back for more.
Pricing: Smaller quantities of materials are
usually more expensive. Find out whether the supplier has wholesale or tiered
pricing (like we do), as this can affect your overall profit margin.
Fabric width: Don’t assume that the fabric is a
standard width – always check! Hand woven fabrics are often thinner and some
wholesale fabrics may be wider than you would normally assume. It really makes
a difference on what you can fit onto the fabric – and may mean that you can buy
less yards overall.
Remember, fabric prices are always
based on the length, not the width. Create a lay plan of all your pattern
pieces before you order to see how many yards you will actually
require. It’s a waste of money and resources to order a lot more than you
actually need, just because you haven’t done your calculations!
Ethical Policy
This is becoming increasingly
important for consumers and something you should really think about as a
designer. With the increasing ease of access to sustainable supply chains and
an increased demand for transparency, it is no good turning a blind eye to the
way the cotton growers are treated or the ethical standards of the factory
creating your fabric, just to increase your profit margin. “I didn’t know” or
“I didn’t realize” are not going to cut it with savvy consumers if things are
not up to scratch. It is your design and your responsibility to know what is
going on at every stage.
Prevalent Hiccups to avoid
If Finding Cloth
Fabric sourcing can be a stumbling
block for many new designers. Although it is good to have an idea of what
you are looking for when choosing your raw materials, you may not always find
exactly what you have in mind, so be willing to compromise.
Some of the factors you should consider
are fibers, colors, price, eco-credentials and weight of the material.Don’t end up on a wild goose chase for the “perfect” fabric, as you may lose time and money in the process. Find the right
balance and be willing to compromise when you discover a fabric that suits the
design, meets essential requirements like continuity and minimums, and also
fits your budget.
You may find the perfect fabric and
plan your design around it, only to later learn that the minimums do not suit
your needs. Save yourself trouble by
asking all of the above questions right away, before you even
begin working on your design. Stock continuity is yet another hiccup that many
designers face. If the fabric is discontinued at the time you finish your
sampling, all your hard work goes to waste. Unless you are equipped to order
production yardage, apart from the collection fabrics you need, only choose
suppliers who have fabric in stock, or will make it to order for you.
Getting Manufacturers
If your design is to go into full
production, your fabric supplies should be from a reliable wholesaler who can
guarantee the stock you need. Suppliers are divided into different types, based
on what they stock and how they operate.
·
Mills provide made-to-offer fabrics with
minimums of thousand yards or more.
·
Wholesalers known as converters are secondary
sources. They process unfinished products from mills and often offer printed
fabrics, specialty effects, and different colors.
·
Jobbers are another category. They carry limited stock of excess fabric
from converters and mills, and sell it at reduced prices. You have to be
careful with this category as they don’t always have repeat fabrics. Once it’s
gone it’s gone and you won’t be able to get it again.
One of the best places to start your
search for reliable suppliers is online. Websites of online suppliers usually list all relevant details,
and this is a convenient way to locate what you need. Trade shows are another
great place to find potential suppliers and see what their samples.
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